The kids were off for a week--Crocus Vacation--basically, our Spring Break. Big "carnival" celebrations all weekend before Lent. The theme of this trip to France was major gothic cathedrals, castles, and WW I battlefields. The other theme was the bitterly cold weather. And trying to find toilets at really inconvenient times.
Sedan
First stop was the castle at Sedan. The original sections were built in 1424 but several layers of defense were added later to withstand cannon fire. It was the site where the Prussians surrounded and defeated Napoleon III during the war of 1870.
The more modern bastions surrounding the castle.
These towers were part of the old castle
Model showing how archers could protect the gate from the towers - check out the cool shoes.Reims
Known for its gothic cathedrals (built 1200s) and as the champagne capital of France. We stayed in a hotel very close to where the Germans officially surrendered in WWII. The cathedral is sublime, so much so that Kathy went to mass on Sunday. This is where every French king was crowned for about a thousand years. Joan of Arc was here for the coronation of Charles VII. Less sublime was the French toilet Jesse needed in an emergency--pretty much a hole in the ground.
Inside the cathedralStatue of Joan of Arc at the location she was said to be during the coronation of Charles VII
Most people were illiterate so churches were covered with stories told with pictures, this one shows what will happen if you've been bad. The demons throw you in the pot."The Ladies' Road" used by royalty to visit. Better known as the ridge that the Germans held in WWI and which a French General--Nivelle--had one million men attack. Basically a suicide mission. The losses were staggering, and led to the largest military mutiny in history, with men not only refusing to go over the top (of the trench) but also reportedly firing on their commanding officers. Nivelle was fired, at least. Today, a quiet peaceful countryside, a favorite with cyclists looking for good climbs. Only the numerous HUGE cemeteries remind you of the carnage that took place here.
Coucy Castle (Coucy-le-chateau)
Kathy's favorite. A massive stronghold, owned by the Coucys, the most powerful aristocratic family throughout the middle ages. Now it's a ruin (partially dismantled, then quarried, then blown up by the ...Germans) but you can still get a sense of the scale. It's odd that people had to live like this--with 20-foot-thick walls and on constant alert. But without a centralized government and the military and police that go with it, the feudal age must have been a pretty dismal and violent era. We stayed within the old fortified city in the only hotel (and restaurant) in town. With no French, Wes managed to get a bottle of good red wine, corkscrew, and wine glasses for our room. We ended up having a really expensive Valentine's Day dinner (champagne, fois gras, etc.) on accident in their restaurant. The best part was that the boys--who sense that they need to behave so surrounding couples can have a romantic dinner, but who then completely freak out-- could watch a movie upstairs in our room while we had a little break from the 24/7 with the family.
Part of the walls that surrounded the castle and the city
It's as cold as it looks.
Stone cutters would mark each stone they cut so you often see strange markings on the walls of these old castles. 
Remains of the circular stairs in one of the towers
Kathy is standing in what used to be the lower floor under a grand meeting room. The cutouts in the upper part of the wall were large fireplaces.
Thank god for cartoons on the laptopAn old royal hunting ground, now a huge forest with mountain bike paths galore. What is now a clearing and monument was the site of Germany's surrender in WWI. The train car in which this happened was later paraded around France, then returned to the spot and put in a small museum. Outside is a memorial to end of the suffering caused by the perfidy and pride of the Germans (or something to that effect). Hitler, when it came time for France's surrender in WWII, had the train car pulled out of the museum (through the front wall) and taken to the exact same spot. He then had it towed back to Berlin where it was on show. It was lost in the bombing at the end of the war. A replica is now inside.
Location for the WWI Armistice and of Frances surrender during WWIIChateau de Pierrefonds
This was a castle originally built in 1100's that was basically in ruins till Napolean III decided it would make a nice country home. The work was more like a reinvention rather than a restoration but it does make for a very scenic castle. Unfortunately it was closed the day we stopped by. I think we might go back on a warmer weekend. The little town below looked nice with a small lake next to it.
Working model of an old siege weapon called a Trebuchet
Wes in front of the castleBeauvais Cathedral
This is an interesting and odd church. Built in the 1200s with the other massive gothic piles, it was never finished and lacks the nave or the long aisle part where you sit facing the altar. The bishops here wanted to have the highest cathedral--and they did until it collapsed, twice. Ran out of money or the ability to collect taxes on the local residents (who did at one point attack the bishop's palace for his heavy levies). Today the thing is held up with huge trusses and supports. Apparently the vibrations from wind wreaks havoc on the structure.
Modern supports to keep the cathedral from falling down again.
Cool gargoyle on the exterior.
The bishops fortress (palace) behind the chruchAmiens
Another huge gothic cathedral, the biggest in terms of square footage. Jesse really liked this one because it has John the Baptist's head, cut off, you no doubt remember, by Herod at his daughter's request. So, there were graphic depictions not only of numerous martyrs (i.e., Stephen shot full of arrows) but also John B. being decapitated and then a carving of what looked like Salome eating his head for dinner. Sadly, the skull is only shown on special occasions, our visit not being one of them. I know people get up in arms about violence on TV, but the art in some of these churches can really compete. It's hard to explain to the kids why all of these people are getting killed in really graphic ways.
Jesse had another bathroom break so Jack and I walked this maze while we waited. Pilgrims used to do it on their knees.
What a cute little angel - wait a minute what's that he's leaning on - Oh gross!
More sinners heading for the dark regions.
Veteran travelers packing their own gear on the way home.
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